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XJ900s Oil lines, tale of woe!

#1
Morning fella Divvies, I thought I would share my latest tale of woe regarding the divvies oil cooler lines.

A week ago I decided that the time had come to try and re-seal the weeping oil lines on my bike. I have managed to do this once before (not totally, but enough to not be a pain) using engine specific silicone sealant. I did this by forming a nice 'lip' of the stuff where the flexible pipe meets the upper rigid one, and it has lasted for a year or so.

Anyhow, just lately, the leak has become much worse, peeing oil all over the engine and exhausts, so I thought I would tackle the job once more.

I spent about an hour gunking off the engine, exhausts and lines, before wheeling the bike into the garage to escape the rather bitter wind that was blowing a week last Sat.

I started by undoing the clamp that holds the lines in place, and whilst I was doing this I noticed a nice little drip of oil coming from the bottom of one of them, rather than the usual place at the top and its not leaked from there before!

So I grabbed a rag to wipe it off and see where the leak was and the flexible pipe just came away in my hand....no effort required at all:rant:

First thought was Jeez I'm glad it decided to let go in the garage, and not when I was doing 70 mph down the dual carriageway, then I thought b*ll*cks, now I have to try and replace the line.

As the flexible braided pipe had come away from the solid oil line where it is flared, I thought if I can get the top bit off the same way, I could just connect a piece of flexible hose between the two using jubilee clips, so off I went to Halfords (not my 1st choice but the only ones open).

They didn't have any oil hose but they did have fuel injector hose which was good for 60 psi, so I bought a 1 metre length.

When I got it home and cut a suitable length, the trouble realy started. It was 9.5mm diameter, and the solid pipe is 10mm. Nice tight fit I thought and by God it was:rant: Hot water, Hot Air Gun, WD40, Grease, you name it, I used it, and the buggar was still a pain to get on. I tried for about 2 hours and gave up coz by this time I was knackered, as were my hands and fingers from getting caught on the various bits of pipework at the front of the engine.

A week went by and after someone suggesting that silicon spray was the way to go, I had another go this last Sat. Fair enough the spray did the trick and eventually I got the new hose on and clamped up. I ran the bike and brilliant, no leaks.

Having had success with the one side, I decided to bite the bullet and do the other side the same way. Again everything came apart frighteningly easily and once again after some grunting and groaning on my part the second hose went on. I ran the bike and after about 20 seconds the line went 'pop' and oil went everywhere!! Ooh dear I said (not). I thought that it might have been down to a sharp bit on the solid oil line so spent 30 mins or so with a small file and emery paper smoothing off the line. I cut out the bit that had popped and re-attached the rubber line. Started it and again the line just burst.:rant:

I decided that it must be on the 'pumping' side and that the pressure required to get the oil up to the cooler is just too great on that side, so I removed the hose again and decided that a complete strip down is now required.

Soo, yesterday I took off the whole shooting match, disconnected the oil cooler end (which suprisingly I managed without wrecking the cooler, through 14mm socket and a small adjustable spanner on the hex bit of the cooler) and then turned my mind to the oil filter end....Jeez what a pain. No room whatsoever to get in the allen keys, no matter what I did I just couldn't get to them, so the whole oil filter, and housing came off (eventually coz that nut that holds it on is a buggar to undo)

Where I'm at now is that I have the whole lot on my bench. I am now trying to find someone who can make up some new lines (coz Mr Yam is not getting my money..stooopid price), OR, I will buy some stronger, proper oil hose and get em fitted to the solid lines whilst the thing is on the bench rather than when it's on the bike.

I'll keep you posted on how I get on, but thought I would share the experience for those yet to encounter this particular Diversion pleasure:swivel:

Alan
 
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#2
Alan when I require high pressure oil lines I normally go to a tractor dealer who does repairs as I live in Norfolk and they make them up for me, but when I lived in Marlow I used to go to a Hydraulic firm in Slough who made them for me, there must be someone like that near you who could make them up for you and a lot cheaper than Mr Yam.
Keith.
p.s. you could also try Marine firms but that will be more expensive I expect unless you just buy high pressure oil hose.
 
#3
Thanks Keith, that's exactly what I did mate. Update for everyone.

I found a hydraulic hose supplier in Chesterfield and told them what I needed.
I dropped off the hoses last Wednesday, and they were ready for collection last Friday. Good news is:
1) They replaced the centre braided hose with some nice new shiny stainless steel ones;
2) They had used 'compression' joints with olives to join the new to the old rigid;
3) they looks the dogs whatsits and only cost me ?32

The bad news:
They had to cut off the old flared ends of the rigid hoses and they are now about 3/4 inch too short....argggh, very frustrating.
I've rung them this morning and they have asked me to drop them off again. They will look for longer braided hoses, or maybe will be able to supply a couple of adapters to lengthen the hoses enough to make em fit.

I did try to 'straighten' one of the lines that come from the cooler, reducing the bends a bit to see if I could get it to join the new braided hose, but to no avail.:headsmash

Nearly there folks and I'll keep you posted.

Alan
 
#4
Further update for anyone interested.

I called into the hose place (AB Hoses Chesterfield) with the oil filter housing and the too short hoses this morning.

They said they could swap what they had supplied for ones about 5cms longer, which they did, attaching them to the solid lines from the filter housing for me.

They did this while I waited ( about 10 mins) and wouldn't take any more money for them.

Top blokes. Tonight I will see if I can get then back on the Diversion and will let you know if they work ok.

Happy bunny again :D

Alan
 
#5
Good news Alan I am surprised they used an olive fitting not that there is anything wrong with it, we use that type of fitting in the marine world a lot but not normally for high pressure lines (but that night be a marine safety rule) all mine have been swaged in the past, still it does mean you can split them if you ever need to :)
Keith
 
#6
Hello Keith,

it is a weird shaped 'olive', not your normal plumbing type so not sure what it's called really.
The company that supplied them specialise in hoses for the rail industry (although they do do other things as well) and they knew what they are for so I'm hoping the do the trick.

I've measured them up against the bike and they will defo fit this time, but I've not got around to fitting them just yet.

I reckon I need a clear head and some time to make sure the joints are all tight enough before I put the whole lot back on the machine, becase I would hate for the things to still be leaking once it's running.

Not only would it mean I was no further forward with solving the leaking hoses, but it would mean me having to drop the oil out again, remove the filter etc, as tightening them up on the bike would be near impossible because of the very limited space.

I'll let you know how I get on :)

Alan
 
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#8
Morning all

Further update on these bl**dy oil lines. As you can tell they are getting to me now :mad:

After a little break from looking at them I tried to connect them all up between Xmas and new year. (I was so fed up with them that I've been riding my sons Bonnie to work and back, and have neglected the Divvy)

Anyhow, the longer hoses fit no problem, BUT when I tried to get it all connected, one side of the oil cooler wouldn't torque down to the required 32nm. On investigation I discovered that the thread had stripped...oh dear I thought, that's a shame, or words similar to that!!

Had to remove the oil cooler, and to get at it fully, decided to remove the fairing (should have done that in the first place in hindsight). This turned out to be a pain also as the indicators wouldn't undo as the nuts holding them were rusted solid, but got the things off eventually.

Found a local engineering company that helicoiled the oil cooler for me for ?20, which was great. Got the cooler home and re-fitted it, having annealled the old copper washers as I couldn't find any new ones in any of our local DIY or car supply shops.

Finally started the bike and the oil was peeing out of the banjo joints on the cooler on both sides. So I undid it all again, checked all was ok, re-annealled the washers again, put it back together, torqued it down and guess what, still peeing oil out.

So last week I ordered four new washers from CMC Chesterfield. They took three days to get but they arrived last Thursday and I fitted them last Sunday. They leaked also..... Getting really peed offf by now I can tell ya.

Decided in the end to use some engine silicone that I had bought a while ago to try and stem the leaking pipes in the first place. I put a bead of it under the new washers and around the banjo bolts and torqued then down again. It takes at least 24 hours to cure it says so up to now I haven't tested it yet, but will do tonight.

If it still leaks I have decided to do away with the cooler altogether, and what I will do is use one of the new hoses to form a loop between the solid pipes coming out of the oil filter housing, therefore bypassing the cooler.

I think as I don't do any touring in hot climates that the engine will probably run ok without it, but we will wait and see.

Anyhow, it might not leak tonight when I start her up.....ya never know:D

Update to follow

Alan E
 
#9
Another update:

Well the silicon has worked on most of the joints, bar one which is still weeping slightly. Not exactly peeing out like it was before, but still got a leak none the less.

Not sure where I go now to be honest and think I have a couple of options,
1) Use it as it is and just keep cleaning off the engine when the oil gets
too much for me to stand;

2) Have a go at sealing the side thats still weeping using either another
copper washer, and or sealant;

3) Go with the idea of bypassing the cooler by joining the solid pipes
coming out of the oil filter housing;

4) Or, looking at some old posts on her, use a smaller bolt and remove
the oil filter housing part that has the oil cooler pipes attached to it,
which seems to work;

5) Final option, park it up outside on the road and set fire to the bar sterd
thing :mad: (joking of course, I love her too much for that)

I'll let you know what transpires when I've made me mind up! ;)

Alan
 
#10
Another update:

Well the silicon has worked on most of the joints, bar one which is still weeping slightly. Not exactly peeing out like it was before, but still got a leak none the less.

Not sure where I go now to be honest and think I have a couple of options,
1) Use it as it is and just keep cleaning off the engine when the oil gets​

too much for me to stand;​


2) Have a go at sealing the side thats still weeping using either another​

copper washer, and or sealant;​


3) Go with the idea of bypassing the cooler by joining the solid pipes​

coming out of the oil filter housing;​


4) Or, looking at some old posts on her, use a smaller bolt and remove​

the oil filter housing part that has the oil cooler pipes attached to it,​

which seems to work;​


5) Final option, park it up outside on the road and set fire to the bar sterd​

thing :mad: (joking of course, I love her too much for that)​


I'll let you know what transpires when I've made me mind up! ;)

Alan
I found the hexacons on the oil cooler are made from cast bar and crack if you do them up too tight poor design also put a spanner on them when removing the bango bolt.